Less restful sleeps last night, my lovely wine pairing with supper spoilt mine, and Trix woke up at 5:30. Needed to be up early anyway as we had a 7:15 breakfast slot, enough time (for me) to have a soak in our onsen first, watching the fog swirl around was very peaceful.
Somehow we were in time to catch an early train, with space for us and our giant suitcases. We felt like we were in a studio Ghibli film as it slowly snaked and zig zagged its way down the edge of this ancient volcano. Occasionally the forest would open and we’d catch sight of the other side of the gorge, rushing water below, tendrils of cloud caught in eddies of wind, then it would close in again, the green tunnel steeper than you’d think a train could cope with.
Easy train change at Hakone-Yumoto, with plenty of time for coffee in Odawara station before our Shinkansen to Osaka.
Having all our tickets and instructions is so helpful, we just need to look in our information pack for where we need to be and by when, then follow the instructions. Makes the whole process a breeze and very low stress.
Mount Fuji briefly appeared between the clouds passed, just as elusive as it’s been for the last few days, we’re hopeful that the weather is kind to us when we return to Tokyo next week.
“I’m hungry” Trix says at 12, her lunchtime internal timer appears to be unaffected by jet lag. I’m still quite full from eating most of both of our breakfasts, including the grilled mackerel that was looking lonely on Trixs side of the table. My western style choice included an octopus salad, not quite my usual yoghurt and granola. The scrambled eggs with wagyu beef stew was a well received interpretation of what people in the UK might eat in the mornings.
We realise that our itinerary has a typo and the train takes 45 minutes longer than we thought. Every time the door to the next carriage opens our eyes snap up, hopeful to see someone with a food trolley. The hotel presented us with some pickled plums as we left, they’re slowly starting to seem a bit more edible.
As the train approaches Nagoya I joke that Trix should make a dash for the nearest vending machine, we both know that’s a ridiculous idea, and anyway the machines we saw earlier only had cold water and hot coffee. When our window passes a very well stocked kiosk, we look at each other, eyebrows raised. “I reckon I can make it”, I’m looking at the departure board hanging over the platform. “No, don’t, it’s too risky, don’t get left behind on some random train station”, Trix sounds panicky, there is a queue forming to get off the train, another to get back on. I can see the cold beer waiting for me.
“I’ve got 6 minutes, look”, I point, and stand up, “loads of time, I’ll just grab whatever I can see, yeah?”, inserting myself into the queue in a very non-Japanese way I make for the door, just making out the sound of Trix groaning behind me.
I’m back in 4, tuna mayo onigiri, crisps, coke and a delicious Suntory premium malt. Sorted, I love Japan.
Arriving in Osaka was a bit of a shock after a weekend in the mountains, but we managed to get ourselves and our cases to the hotel relatively easily (having pre-charged IC cards made a huge difference). While our room was finished being prepared we zipped down the road to B Side Label to stock up on stickers.
Very brief sit down then off to meet our group for a “retro” food tour, whatever that means.
Turns out that we stopped in about 4 different places that served traditional Osaka food, Japanese of course, but with a very local twist. The highlight was octopus balls, or more accurately Takoyaki. Little sort of dumpling things covered in sauce and loveliness, could have just stayed there!
Was great to meet some other people and by the end of the evening we were all chatting away.
Got back to the hotel about 9:30, unpacked (!) and now just reading a bit before lights out.
jura runner 